Thursday, April 30, 2015

Mom and Dad in Ecuador!! Part II

We hadn't spent much time in Quito yet and thought the best way to show Mom and Dad around town was with a hop-on-hop-off tour.  On our way to catch the trolley we stopped off to show Mom and Dad the view of the valley from the top of the Guapulo hill.

Looking out over the valley (there is another volcano you can sometimes see from here...but alas...more clouds)
First stop was the Basilica. Javier and I learned something new at this stop...the gargoyles on the Basilica are the animals found throughout Ecuador including pink river dolphins and turtles!
Staples family outside the Basilica
We didn't have time to go in, but the building is beautiful from the outside
Next stop: Plaza de la Independencia.  Mom and Dad were worried we'd be bored, but we kept learning new stuff!  Here we heard about an arrogant man that repeatedly insulted the rooster weathervane that perches on top of the Cathedral in the square until one night when he was drunk, the rooster flew down and attacked him.  Now the rooster stands as a symbol of protection in the square.
Quick stop in Plaza San Francisco!  
Mom and Dad on La Ronda.  La Ronda is a popular evening destination for salsa dancing and canelazo drinking.
(It's also a beautiful street!)
The tour also took us up the Panecillo to see the statue of the Virgin.

and gave us this gorgeous view of Quito
Saturday night dinner was at our favorite burger place: La Burguesa!  We usually order milkshakes or the artisanal beers they have on the menu....but with Mom and Dad we got BOTH!
We clean up good for Easter Sunday!
Javier found a church that held mass in English.  It was a short walk from our apartment and a really beautiful church.
inside the little church

We were worried about having a seat, but when we arrived 15 minutes before mass we were the only ones there....so we walked around and took some fun pictures.  Mass was quick, but really nice.  It was wonderful to hear some familiar songs - made it feel like Easter!!
After mass we headed off to brunch so Mom and Dad could meet the Andersons!  We really like the food at Warmi and the company wasn't bad either.  It was really nice to have Mom and Dad meet some of the people we've become close with here.
In the afternoon we headed back to Centro Historico to try to go inside La Compania (our favorite church downtown).  Typical Ecuador...we kept being told that it was opening any second....but it never did.  Instead we walked through a free exhibit of South American art.  Some of it was really cool! 
Day of the Dead art.
and Mom got a new beach hat!  (look at her wearing her backpack in front like a good Quito tourist)
We wanted to show Mom and Dad Parque Carolina.  It's one of the most beautiful parks and is packed on weekends with families playing all sorts of games and sports.  Also...look at that view.
I had made jokes about it, but we saved all the best restaurants for their visit.  When do you think you get too old to be excited about having your parents take you out?  Sunday night was italian at La Briciola.
Javier had to work on Monday, but I took the day to hang out with Mom and Dad as long as I could!  Where better to go on your last day in Ecuador than the center of the world?  Here they are, splitting two hemispheres. 

llamas!
We wanted the good picture at the big monument, but Mom and Dad had to try all the fun games at the other (supposedly more accurate) equator line.  Here we are at 00'00'00" (the other one).
Balancing an egg on a nail head...no problem for this guy!
she needed her glasses to do it...but once they were on....she got it immediately!
Picture of Mom and Dad in front of the rotunda at school
(picture added late because it could not be found...but was eventually discovered on Javier's phone)
After our equator adventures, Mom and Dad got to see our school and meet some friends.  It was just amazing to see them walking around a place that's become so familiar to me and yet so foreign to friends at home.  I think they really enjoyed seeing how our life is down here.  And truthfully, I was worried about how the trip would go, but it was just about perfect.  Mom and Dad were so go-with-the-flow about everything (like at lunch when one person's entree came out a good ten minutes before the rest....that's Ecuador).  They also seemed to really enjoy our outings and agree that Ecuador is beautiful.  We really have fallen in love with this place, so it felt great to have people I love affirm its good qualities.  I am so thankful and happy that they made the trip!

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Mom and Dad in Ecuador!! Part I

To say that I was excited for my Mom and Dad to come for a visit would the biggest understatement of a lifetime.  I was so excited to show them this beautiful country that Javier and I have fallen in love with and the little life that we've built here.  I was excited and nervous...Ecuador is very different from the US in the most random and unexpected ways, and I was worried about Mom and Dad being uncomfortable or inconvenienced.  My concerns started with customs at the airport since they were graciously bringing the entire contents of a Target store with them for us.  But in reality we almost missed them because they flew through without a second glance.  First success of the trip!
We're so excited!
Proof they both made it safe and sound!
Day 1 started the slow parade of treats (those we ordered and some surprises) delivered from Mom and Dad's bags....
starting with the most AMAZING surprise of all....a CHOCOLATE POUND CAKE!!!  My childhood and all-time favorite!
I cannot believe how thoughtful and adventurous they were to bring such a treat across the ocean to Ecuador!
(I averaged two pieces a day until it was finished)
Travel is exhausting and Quito's high altitude was taking its toll on Mom so we had a quiet evening to let everything settle.  Besides, we had an exciting trip to Banos planned for the morning!
Mom and Dad were as appreciative of the view as we are!  I've said it before, but it never gets old and is fun to hear others ogle over it the way that we do!
We rented a car for our big trip to Banos.  It is a beautiful drive, but was unfortunately too cloudy for Mom and Dad to see Cotopaxi (the volcano) from the road.  (This became a running joke of the trip...we continued to point out where volcanoes should be...but Mom and Dad continuously saw only clouds...)  We grabbed lunch as soon as we arrived and hoped that our delay would stop the rain....but it didn't.  The bad weather changed our plans a bit and we decided drive to see a few waterfalls.  Our first stop was Cascada Manto de La Novia or The Bride's Veil (because that's what it supposedly looks like).  After getting out of the car and taking a short walk, we had nice view of the falls from across the canyon....aaaaaand learned that we could get closer after a short, but terrifying ride on a tarabita.  Javier and I had taken a tarabita a few times in Mindo.  This one was particularly large and open.  There was some discussion of the obvious safety limitations in design and structure of the contraption, but Mom and Dad were troopers...
Braving the tarabita in the rain!!
I have such adventuresome parents!!
the view up close was totally worth it!
(as was the coffee we got at the little cafe to warm up a bit)
Our next stop was Pailon del Diablo.  It is the largest waterfall in Banos and boasts a rock in the shape of a Devil's face (which is where it gets its name).  The rain had still not let up and the hike down to the falls was at least 30 minutes, but our crew agreed it was worth it.  The hike down wasn't too bad and the intensity of the falls at the bottom was amazing.  We were actually able to get up close to the waterfall which was very wet and kind of scary.  Then we crossed this clearly secure and safe bridge to have a picturesque view.
We made it down to Pailon del Diablo!
pictures just don't capture how strong this waterfall is!
That night we had a lovely dinner on the patio of the Swiss Bistro!
Mom and Dad were fans of the little patio at our hotel (Hotel Volcano) but missed the message that 'on time' in Ecuador means 10-15 minutes late always.  They arrived promptly at 7 for breakfast to learn that the coffee wasn't even ready...
We wanted to swing by (pun intended) the swing at the end of the world on our way out of town and stopped at a spot that looks out over Banos before making it to the top.
What a handsome looking couple taking in the sights of the Andes!
Daddy-o swinging off the end of the world!
Mommy Mommy taking her turn (and turning around to give the camera a smile)
This is the woman who asked me about a safety harness the first time I went...NO HANDS!
Daddy-o tipping his hat to the clouds
We wanted to make it back to Quito in time for the Good Friday parade that we had heard about from other teachers that attended last year.  Ecuadorians take Holy Week pretty seriously and Quito in particular is one of only two cities in the world that still performs the dragging of the capes ceremony.  The parade on Good Friday (or Procession of Jesus of Great Power) was to include several characters reenacting Jesus' walk to crucifixion and those taking on the punishments he endured as an act of contrition.  We barely made it to the parade and the streets were very crowded with onlookers.  
The purple robes and hoods are supposed to hide the identities of those sinners seeking penance. 
Several participants were carrying crosses, some covered in barbed wire.  It's a pretty intense scene to witness.  We didn't stay long.
For lunch we went to Vista Hermosa to try some traditional Ecuadorian cuisine and take in the beautiful views.
We got some empanadas, ceviche and Javier tried fanesca, a soup only available during the Easter holiday.
Great view of the Basilica!! 
After lunch we took a quick walk to some of the churches close by in Centro Historico to see the floral crosses they place in front of them during holy week.  They were really beautiful.  The streets were crowded with folks enjoying the festivities.  
We had our big fancy dinner at Zazu on Friday night.  All (well except maybe Javs) were thankful for the English menus!  And the food was delicious too!!

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Cuenca Spring Break

In addition to the week off in February, Colegio Menor takes a spring break the week prior to the Easter holiday.  Javier and I were looking forward to hosting my parents for the later part of the week, but decided we had time to slip in a quick trip the weekend before their arrival.  We hadn't been to Cuenca yet, the other colonial city in Ecuador and top destination for US retired expats.  It was a cheap and easy flight that gave us most of Saturday, Sunday and Monday to explore the city.  We started with lunch (duh) and then walked around town a bit.  We only ventured around old town, but this section of the city is super walkable.
There is just something about Ecuadorian streets that look so Ecuadorian to me now....do you see it?
Our room wasn't ready so we wandered down to the river and Paseo 3 de Noviembre.  It was such a beautiful day that many people were sitting along the river or out walking around.
We walked to Puente Roto to see the washed away bridge and check out the art displays that are protected underneath. (The art options were slim pickings on the day we arrived.)
We continued walking down Calle Larga to the Ruinas de Todos Santos.  We didn't take the tour or anything, but took a quick look and some pictures.
Since we were on vacation and had nowhere to be and all day to get there, we decided to stop by a little coffee shop, Puro Cafe,  I had heard was good.  Look at my cute husband, patiently tolerating my photojournalism. 
In addition to having delicious coffee, the little cafe had an amazing view.  We thoroughly enjoyed our lattes and view and the chocolate mousse we ordered too!
After coffee, we headed back to check into our room.  We splurged on a nice hotel, Hotel El Conquistador, for the weekend.  Here is our lovely sitting room (that was used mostly to house our muddy hiking attire after a visit to Cajas National Park).
Huge bathroom, but it didn't have a door....that's right...just blended into the rest of the room....
Fancy digs
And here was the lovely view we had outside of our room.  Grandma Pat wisely advised us to take pictures looking out the windows of our homes and vacation spots, something we have tried to do ever since.  It's a great idea for remembering your views and the sights you see looking out the window.
We took a quick walk through Parque Calderon to see the Catedral de la Inmaculada  before heading out to dinner.
ready for our big dinner out
 
Tiestos had been recommended by more than one friend, so we headed there for dinner.  We ordered their steak dinner for two which included a parade of steak medalions each with a new seasoning or sauce.  It was delicious and disgusting....it even included this lovely dessert....which we also ate.
The next day we took a bus to Cajas National Park for some hiking.  Cajas is located up in the mountains around Cuenca so we ended up buying some warmer attire for the trek (a.k.a. Javs' hat and the alpaca sweater I'm sporting).

We were dropped off at Laguna Toreadora and checked in at the information center.  The guide took one look at us and judged, but suggested the pink route if we were determined to do some hiking.
Even from the information center....the view was beautiful.
We found Route 1 and set out.
Did I mention how beautiful....
We had read about the Polylepis trees that created forests in these high altitudes and were looking forward to walking through one.  Our travel book described entering the forests as 'entering a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.'  Into the woods...
It's so scary!!!!
here is a look at the dense forest....it was crazy how thick it was
conquering the forest
but we made it through and found Lagos Unidos on the other side where we parked to rest and snack a bit 
beautiful waterfalls and breathtaking views 
on our hike back we met some friends
It was very misty on our hike, but I think the high altitude probably means the park is constantly in the clouds.  I would never call us hikers, but we're usually up for one when it's the thing to do.  This was certainly one of our hardest....mostly because of the muddy terrain.  We were both constantly slipping and sloshing about and were completely covered in mud by the end.  I took a shower and a bath when we got back....
I had to snap this picture on the way to dinner because it was so beautiful....as usual, the photo doesn't do it justice...
Cuenca has many, many churches (if the Spanish do nothing else when they colonize....) but this one is called Church of Santo Domingo
On our last day in Cuenca, I was looking forward to visiting the Museo del Banco Central 'Pumapungo', but when we arrived...we learned that it was closed on Mondays.  But the Archaeological Park around the back is always open, so we walked around a bit.  The park included ruins of buildings believed to be part of the old Incan city.  The museum has also planted an extensive garden that they believe duplicates the one that might have been part of the original city.
terraced ruins
After the park, we headed to the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla to check out some traditional panama hats.  The museum continues to make hats today in addition to selling a number of styles in their store.  This machine is heating the straw to shape the brim of the hat.
These ladies were adding color and embroidery to the hats.
We each tried a few on, but apparently panama hats are not our style...regardless...the hat museum was a hit.
We spent much of the rest of the day hopping from church to church.  This is the Church of El Carmen de la Asuncion where a flower market is held daily.  The flowers were beautiful!
We also paid a few dollars to enter the Old Cathedral or El Sagrario.  It was pretty, but I always have trouble reading the Spanish history cards....
Then we crossed Parque Calderon to the New Cathedral or Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion.  Ecuadorians poke a bit of fun at the Cathedral because it was supposed to have two tall bell towers that couldn't be built because of a design error that wouldn't allow the building to support their weight.  Now the Cathedral just has two stumpy towers...but a gorgeous inside!
In the afternoon, we took a taxi to the Mirador de Turi, for a great view of the city.  It was a beautiful day and we were able to see way off into the distant mountains.
This is the white Church of Turi.  When we peaked inside a nun was holding class for a group of small kiddos.
it was a gorgeous view
We had heard from a fellow teacher that a pharmacy right off of Parque Calderon sold a special soda that could cure hangovers.  Even without a hangover, we sought it out to see what such a miracle elixir might look like...apparently it's pink 
We both loved Cuenca.  It was super quaint and beautiful.  We couldn't believe how much English we heard spoken on the streets (something we never hear in Quito).  We even had menus in English.  It's obvious that the expat community has influenced Cuenca in a way we haven't seen in Quito.  But the influence also extended to prices....everything was more expensive (taxi rides, food, everything...).  Regardless, we agreed that it is a city we'd like to see again before we leave Ecuador for good.  There are some good day trips to take outside of the city for the next time around too.
one more shot of Cuenca while we waited for the taxi.