Iñaquitos Market and Paella (made by Spaniards)

Like I said in my previous post, many of my updates document our exciting and glamorous travels, but we have a good time hanging around Quito many weekends as well.  We had a particularly enjoyable Saturday after our January break when we traveled to Quito's Iñaquito market to pick up some supplies for a Spanish paella.  Our good buddy, Javier Garcia is a paella aficionado.  He has made us many but never been satisfied with the outcome.  On this Saturday he was on a mission to make the best and sent us to the market with a large list.  We had heard about the Iñaquito market before;,a cool spot to go to check out (and buy) lots of local produce and seafood.

like these crabby guys (not on our list, but orange and purple and interesting to look at!)  Also these guys are 100% still alive and bundled up this way.

And this guy.  He was quiet but friendly.  And hanging out with suckers.

Lots and lots of eggs.  Extra Giant eggs.

And stalls upon stalls of veggies.

If I've learned one thing about making a good paella, it is that you must invite a large number of people over to (of course) eat it, but also to help with all the chopping.  Our expert instructed us choppers to chop small (oh good...that makes it go quicker...)

all the fixins

As you can see, stirring was left to the experts.  (This is our friend Tiffany.  She is an expert coffee, tea, and toast maker.)

Look at all the delicious paella!

It was the best paella he has made us yet!  And Javier and I were happy to have discovered Iñaquito market.  We haven't tried cuy (guinea pig) yet and it's an Ecuadorian specialty.  While at the market we saw several being served and think we'll go back to try one!

CicloVia

Well it's been 2 months since my last post.  I would say it's safe to say I'm a bit behind.  Juuuust a bit.  But before I can get into the thrills of Carnaval in Rio, beautiful islands, paragliding, 1950s cars in Havana, monkeys boarding our tour boat, and big ships passing through the Panama Canal...I feel the need to finish two run-of-the-mill posts that I started months ago.  And as exciting as Brazil and Cuba and Panama were, I also like the idea of updating you folks at home on our everyday experiences.  Quito is a great city and we've really enjoyed the weekends we've spent here as well!

Back in Feb (or maybe it was Jan...) Javier and I finally took advantage of a great opportunity Quito offers every Sunday.  Quito is a long city (North to South), with four main avenues running the length of the city.  On Sundays, the city shuts down Amazonas to automobile traffic and allows the bikes of Quito free-reign.  The road is called CicloVia.  At $3 an hour to rent a bike, we just had to feel the wind in our hair, sailing down the streets of the city.

Parts of the road took us a bit closer to traffic than I would have hoped, but you can see the many folks taking advantage of the available roadway.  (Also I dropped my phone and almost feel off my bike right after taking this picture).

Our buddy, Ashley, is a regular on the CicloVia ,so she was showing us the ropes.  Here we stopped at a water station in Centro Historico.

The road took us straight into old town and provided for some amazing views.  It looks small in my photo, but the Virgin of Quito was beautiful up on the Panecillo hill.

Look at this cool tree that grows through the sidewalk.  (And Ashley rocking her bike riding!)

We took the road around the Panecillo and ended up seeing some cool sights.  Including this staircase which puts the Georgetown Exorcist stairs to shame.

And this statue.  I remember the plaque said something cool about this guy, but now I can't remember.  Javier says that is said something about how if he had a balcony in every city and town, he'd be president (and then he was....we think).

Mostly we enjoyed the beauty of Quito's roads.  Ecuadorian streets have a look about them that I hope I recognize forever.

And views like this.

It was a wonderful morning full of Quito sights.

And on the way back we had a view of the Bascilica!

Wish we had taken advantage of this awesome opportunity earlier.  It was something special to see the city this way!

World Cup Qualifier Take Two

Our last trip to Estadio Olimpico Atahualpa was a bit of a wet one.  While we had a blast (in part because it was our anniversary), we both were really hoping our second World Cup Qualifier game would be a sunny one!  When we arrived at the stadium...

we were greeted with beautiful sun and more people in the crowd than last time!!

Bright sunshine and lots of smiles

This second game was against Uruguay.  Ecuador won 2-1 and has (temporarily) secured the number one spot in South America!

This is our friend Esperanza and Dani's nephew.  He had never been to a national game and was so excited the entire time.  It was fun to have him with our group.

Here is our little group.  We had to fight the crowds a bit more, but watching the game in the sun was sooooo much more enjoyable!!  And Ecuador's victory didn't hurt either!  And now we can boast attendance at 2 World Cup Qualifier games!

Classick keeping Quito Classy (Part II of Classick's Visit)

Oops.  As you may have noticed...there has been a brief hiatus in the Heads Over Heels blog.  Oops.  Instead of regaling you with excuse after excuse, I'll just say SORRY.  And that after our AMAZEBALLS trip to Chile I knew I just HAD to get back on the blogging train 1) so that you people can see what we're up to and 2) to finish the documenting of our little adventure that is swiftly coming to an end...so without further ado, let's travel back to November when our dear, dear friend Classick visited.  His visit wasn't all owl monkeys and anacondas...we also showed him the sites of plain ol' Quito...

Now that you're filled in on our jungle adventure, I should tell you about the rest of Classick's visit.  First off, it is just the most fun to have people visit us here.  We relish the time with familiar faces and love showing off Ecuador to friends and family.  Classick arrived Thursday so that he could spend Friday adjusting and recovering before we left for the jungle.  Javier and I had to work Friday, so Classick was on his own.  He felt good and was able to walk around Quito quite a bit!

Classick made it to Quito!!

Friday night we went to Ananke for dinner.  They serve delicious spiced wine and have a gorgeous view of the valley down below.  (Also our friend Tiffany came with us!)

After the jungle I was quite tired. (Photo credit: one Matthew Classick) and Javier and I had to return to work.  

So Classick took a trip midweek to Cuenca where he spent one day hiking in Cajas National Park.  He shared some of his pictures with me so that I could share them with you!

Cajas is just breathtaking.  Javier and I went to the park last year when we visited Cuenca and hope to make it one more time before we head back to the USA!

When Classick got back to Quito on Friday night, we took him to the local food market (same one Anthony Bourdain visited!).  He was super adventurous and tried many of the local options.  (Some look more appetizing than others...)

Like the fried dough with honey....yes, please.

After our traditional dinner we headed to Abysmo for a less traditional beer.  The cervezas in Ecuador leave something to be desired, but we had heard Absysmo served artisanal options and were looking forward to trying some.  

Javier and I were impressed, but Classick thought that they didn't hold up to his options in the USA.  We struggled through them regardless.  After some beers we took Classick to old town to watch some salsa.  (We watched...no dancing.)

Saturday was rainy, but our only real day to tour the city, so we set out to see the sights.  We started in Iglesia de la Compañia.  Visitors are not supposed to take pictures, but rebel Classick snapped this one to show you readers that magnificent gold that covers the ceiling and walls.

Visiting the churches in old town presents an interesting paradox.  They're brimming with tourists (like us) but also frequented by devote parishioners who light candles and say their prayers.

 I usually straddle the line and light a candle.  As usual, the pictures don't really give you the feel of the scene or sound of the creaking wooden floor or smell of the incense that encompasses the space.

Classick wanted to try a traditional almuerzo.  In Ecuador you can get lunch for $3 that includes soup, a plate with a protein (usually pork or chicken), rice and a juice.  We walked just a few blocks and found a spot. Don't our soups look yum-o?

After our big day out we stopped by Hotel Quito for some cocktails.  The views on both sides of their 9th floor bar were beautiful.  Clouds had moved into the valley creating a misty and beautiful scene.

I'm not sure that we really improve the view, but it is at least a good picture of us!

On the other side was one of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen in Quito.

It wasn't centered over the volcano like I wanted...but the colors were truly beautiful.

It was our last night so we headed to the Mariscal where many of the young folk in Quito go to hang out.  We found another spot that brewed their own beer.  (Javier and I were once again super impressed with Classick being less so....)

And then the boys found a foosball table....and I lost them....

No trip to Quito could be complete without a visit to Gonzalez Suarez Hot Dogs (especially late night!) and Classick was brave enough to try the traditional crumbled potato chips on his dog!  

A bit tired after the foosball marathon...we had a simple breakfast in the park before Classick's flight.  We had just a blast sharing our jungle adventure and his visit to Quito with Classick.  But it was also nice to chat with our friend and catch up in a way that we struggle to do over email and quick FacetTime calls.  

Cabezas Anniversary #3: Wet and Worldly

Javier and I celebrated the completion of year 3 in our marriage history last week.  As we've started discussing our return home, I've been sometimes thinking about whether or not I'll keep up with the blog back in the US.  Our lives certainly won't involve as much travel or eventful sagas.  But I also love that I've blogged about all three of our anniversaries so far and the idea of keeping up that kind of documentary sounds good to me.  Anyway, here is a blog for anniversary #3 no matter what.  Per usual, we spent the day in a cloud of lit candles, rose buds, and sparkling champagne.  Actually, that's not quite true...

One of our big goals for this year was to attend an event (preferably a soccer game) in the Estadio Olimpico Atahualpa right here in Quito, so when Javier realized that Ecuador would host two World Cup qualifier games we new we had our chance.  What I we learned later was that one of the home games fell slap, dab on October 13th.  No problem, we were still in and excited to celebrate our anniversary with a mere 40,000 screaming Ecuadorian fans.

With our $7 fake jersey's purchased and permission to leave early from school to make the event on time, we were more than ready.  Nothing could stop us!  Not even the rain. And rain.  And rain.  Considering it hasn't rained in Quito since Javier and I got back from the summer, it felt like the heavens were making up for all that drought time in the 2-3 hour stretch of the soccer game.  Just waiting in line to get into the stadium made us soaked to the bone!

Shockingly, someone abandoned this hat in the downpour, but our hero saved it from a puddle!

Esperanza, (other) Javier, and Tiffany were some school friends we would be sharing our big number 3 with!
We are all drenched....

Huge surprise: these $2 ponchos were not as waterproof as we had hoped....Javier took off his 'hood' sometime shortly after we sat down.  I look like I'm enjoying it, don't I?  Have I mentioned that the combination of rain and altitude is a frigid one?

The rain slowed enough for me to take some quick pics of our seats and the stadium.  It was much smaller than we had pictured (but that means no bad seats, right?) 

And not super tall (no nose bleeds here!)

This is the crew that stayed for the whole game: Esperanza, Dani (her wife), and our devoted taxi driver, Zenon.

After Ecuador's surprise victory over Argentina (@ Argentina and with a 2 goal difference!!!) we thought they had an easy win at home against Bolivia, but the game was tied 0-0 well into the second half.  Thankfully Ecuador finally scored in the 81st minute and then was awarded a penalty kick a few minutes later (95th minute) to win the game 2-0.  It's amazing how a victory can help you forget the soaking, freezing rain!

Okay, it may not have been our most romantic anniversary, but it was a wonderful one cause I spent it with this guy (hat included).  Besides, it seems more and more that it's the combination of these little (sometimes miserable) adventures that make up the sum of our marriage.  Which is great by me!