Peru: Cusco

After returning from the States, Javier and I had just a few short days at home to wallow do laundry and repack before we headed to Peru.  Javier and the Cabezas family had traveled to Cusco and Machu Picchu before, but I was looking forward to seeing the sights for the first time.  I hadn't done my usual (which is relatively minimal) research before we went, but quickly picked up Turn Right at Machu Picchu which I would 100% recommend to anyone traveling to or interested in the Incan ruins of Peru.  I also read Blue Moon Machu Picchu by Ben Westwood on our flight and during the trip and would not recommend it if anyone is looking (outdated, bad maps, generally negative, etc.)! We had booked the trip with Machu Travel Peru, who I would recommend for the sole reason that they give you a private tour guide for the actual Machu Picchu site visit (but more on that later).  We spent our first few days and last fews days of Peru in Cusco.  Javier had remembered good things about the city and wanted to give us some time to look around!

We arrived in Cusco in time for a late lunch and walk around town.  This is the Qorikancha.  It was originally an Inca temple dedicated to the Sun, but was destroyed/rebuilt by the Spanish to be a convent and church.  Today, tourists marvel at the difference in stonework between the colonial architecture (kind of tan in color) and the remaining stones placed by the Inca (grey, at the bottom).

There is a museum associated with the Qorikancha.  It was OK, and included several mummies and skulls excavated from Inca sights that illustrated their burial traditions.

The main square, Plaza de Armas, is quite beautiful.

We were told on many occasions about the wonder that was the Inca masonry.  In many instances the Inca cut stones to fit together so perfectly that there was no need or use of mortar.  Many stones had multiple sides cut into them in order to fit in their proper place.  Above is the famous 12 sided stone on the streets of Cusco.

On Sunday we went to San Pedro Market.  While it includes the traditional trinkets that you'll see in most markets around Cusco, it also includes butchers, fruit stands, restaurants and flower markets that locals frequent on weekends.

now those are pigs...

Javier chatted with some owners about what fruits we might see that would be different than Ecuador.  She pulled and cut a small item for us to try.  It tasted peach-ish to me, but Javier translated it as a white apricot.  We bought 3.

COOLEST THING I SAW IN CUSCO!!
If you do end up in Cusco, please go to the Centro de Textiles!  Honestly, it's just a store with a little museum attached, but we both thought it was awesome.  First off, you get to watch these tiny ladies weaving traditional textiles right on the floor (and it looks like hard work!).  But then the museum provides some really good info and artifacts to learn more about all the textiles that are pushed on tourists from minute one in Peru.  

Unfortunately or fortunately (depending on how you're looking at it!) the goods in this store are the real deal, authentic things (which means they're exceptionally $$).  But watching and the museum walk is FREE! (They ask for donations if you're going to take pics, but that seems sort of fair...)

Our second day in Cusco was led by a tour guide provided by Machu Picchu Travel.  We started in the afternoon inside of the Qorikancha.  (You can see how precisely the stones fit together behind Javier!).  I will say that the Moon book warned that the afternoon was the busiest time in the Qorikancha and they were right.  I would suggest going in the AM!

Inca ruins meet colonial Catholicism.  (NBD)

After Qorikancha we traveled just outside of the city to see some ruins.  This is us at a gorgeous lookout point right near Sacsayhuaman (pronounced kind of like 'sexywoman').

more purdy views

Sacsayhuaman is speculated to be a fortress, based on the original design of three walls and its proximity just above Cusco.  Mostly, it seems everyone discusses the mystery of how these massive (please reference above picture of Javier for size comparison) rocks were moved, cut and built to create this impressive complex.

Not a bad wall considering how little of it remains today!

We also stopped at Tambomachay and Puca Pucara.  Tambomachay was pretty cool: you can see how the Inca aqueducts and waterways are still working today (but it was super crowded when we stopped so I didn't take pictures!).  Puca Pucara had some beautiful views, but was quite chilly (we were climbing in altitude as we visited each sight).  While all of these were pretty spectacular (I don't want to dismiss them at all!)  I would suggest (as did Ben from Moon) seeing these prior to your visit to Machu Picchu.  It just seems better to build UP rather then start with the big kahuna and water down from there...

sunset at Puca Pucara

In the most wonderfully random coincidence, our buddies Kim and Guyon were not only staying in Cusco the same night we were, but booked their trip with Machu Travel Peru and were on our tour for the next couple days!!  We had a lovely dinner with them at Limo right in Plaza de Armas.  (Would recommend both eating at Limo and dining with the McKnights!)

**Slightly awkward pause here...we left for the Sacred Valley and eventually Aguas Calientes the next day to spend two days at Machu Picchu.  When we returned we spent a day in Cusco.  The following pictures and stories are from that Cusco Round #2!**

We stayed in the same hotel, Inka Wonder, in Cusco both times, but had this snazzy little view the second time around (that's Plaza de Armas)!

For those of you that might be interested in trying some authentic Peruvian cuisine, but feel a bit gun-shy about street food, I would totally suggest Cafe Morena!  They do a twist on some traditional street food, like the sandwiches you see here!

We also made a stop at Choco Museo (anther free Cusco activity) and got to see (and try!) some Peruvian Chocolate!
This is a cacao tree. (Also...Ecuadorian pride note: we produce more chocolate than Peru!)

Here is a woman cooling chocolate on a slab of marble so that it cools evenly (and doesn't discolor!)

In the evening, we went to a show that illustrated traditional costumes and dance.  It was super fun and colorful!

Most of the museums and churches we went in did not allow photos, so they were not documented here!  In addition to the above, we saw the Cathedral (which has some really interesting art that combines Catholic doctrine with indigenous traditions, i.e. the Last Supper depicted with a cuy (guinea pig) on a platter), Museo Inka (which also has mummies and some really cool Inca artifacts!), Iglesia San Blas (which has a ridiculously intricate pulpit carved from a single tree...and a skull that rests on top of it that supposedly belongs to the man who carved it!), and walked into Hotel Monasterio (which is an old monastery that has been turned into a hotel and is gorgeous!).

Cusco is a neat town and I would definitely suggest spending a few days to check it out if you're in Peru.  I was very happy that Javier suggested adding the extra day in the city after our Machu Picchu adventure.  It meant that we got to see almost all of the attractions we were hoping to!  When we did leave Cusco mid-trip we spent a day in the Sacred Valley before heading up to Aguas Calientes...that post coming up next!